It seems a shame not to cap­ture and share some of our col­lec­tive intel­li­gence about good places to eat and drink.  Some of these are rec­om­mended by oth­ers, unvis­ited and to try.


Ernest Loves Agnes.  Excel­lent new pasta and pizza place on 19th.

Sin­gle shot.  Looks very good; but not under 21.  Need to try.

Sitka & Spruce.  Very nice, and in the beau­ti­ful new Mel­rose Building.

Mam­noon.  Superb Syr­ian food.

Lon­don Plane.  Looks attrac­tive; had their Tartine-style bread at Bar Ferd’nand and it was really good.

Blind Pig.  This place is in a strip mall in East­lake and looks thor­oughly unpromis­ing from with­out.  The mood improves inside, with an entirely sea­sonal and daily-varying menu on the black­board full of cre­ative com­bi­na­tions (water­melon and prawn soup, yum).  With four of us, we just ordered every­thing and feasted.

Cor­son Build­ing.  Need to try.

Bar Sajor.  By the Cor­son peo­ple.  Need to try.

Wan­der­ing Goose.  Awe­some bis­cuits and other things South­ern on 15th, in the style of and owned by one of the Vol­un­teer Park Café ladies (pay and order first at the glass pas­try case in the front where one can be tempted to impulse eat, then sit).  Great brunch.  Unlike in the South, the cap­puc­cino is respectable, though Vic­trola is also next door.

Rione XIII.  Ethan Stowell’s new place on 15th.  We had a beau­ti­ful snack here of pros­ecco, car­ciofi alla judea, and sup­pli al tele­fono.  The micro-counter on the side­walk out­side reminds me of the side­walk parks San Fran­cisco has begun putting in, like the one out­side Four Bar­rel.  15th is look­ing up.

Mon­soon, 615 19th Avenue East.  This is a place we’re very lucky to have so close to home, tucked away in the leafy part of Capi­tol Hill.  Posh Viet­namese, strong on French influ­ences and with a win­ning focus on high-quality ingre­di­ents (painted hills beef, mad hatcher eggs, etc.).  The inte­rior is min­i­mal and attrac­tive; open kitchen behind the bar.  Prices are quite rea­son­able, but this is very much not a Chi­na­town dive; date night works here.  Open every day for din­ner, and now for lunch as well.  On week­ends there’s a lovely brunch, at which one can get dim sum (pieces ordered indi­vid­u­ally though, there’s not nearly enough vol­ume here for the cart), bro­ken rice bowls, banh xeo crêpes, or west­ern things like eggs bene­dict and waf­fles, are very finely pre­pared.  Faves: cat­fish hot pot, green papaya salad, egg dishes, all the dim sum.  Pretty much every­thing is good here.

Vios.  Owned by the cheer­ful, gas­tro­nom­i­cal and community-minded Thomas Soukakos, this is another local gem.  Greek food, again with an empha­sis on sim­plic­ity and fine ingre­di­ents.  Pleas­ant inte­rior, with a place in the back for kids to play, and nom­i­nally a “mar­ket” counter in the front, though mar­ket prices are well north of Greek islandish.  For lunch, it’s hard to beat the lamb sou­vlaki sand­wich, loaded with oven-roasted toma­toes, yogurt and pars­ley.  At din­ner, a glass of retsina and a pik­ilia plate to share would be a good start.

Omega Ouzeri.  New place by Thomas of Vios, the grown up ver­sion.  Delicious.

Anchovies & Olives.  This has become per­haps our favorite place, because: it’s some­how light, in that one can go early or late or on a whim and feel instantly accom­mo­dated.  The menu is short and sweet, and changes often.  The dishes are inter­est­ing and might include things like, for instance, a lit­tle slab of grilled mack­erel with the skin charred, the flesh suc­cu­lent, on a bed of chorizo and wild mush­rooms or some other such umami-intensive thing.  The wines by the glass are very good.  There’s a paint­ing on the wall they should change.  But oth­er­wise the envi­ron­ment is appeal­ing, dark and casual; the wait­staff hip and pierced, but not overly.

Cascina Spinasse.  Warm but­tery light, lovely hand­made pasta, an open kitchen with lots of mason jars.  The fon­duta with truf­fles and egg is not to be missed.

Café Lago.  Need to con­firm ver­sus Seri­ous Pie, but prob­a­bly the most expen­sive pizza in Seat­tle.  Worth it: very fine tra­di­tional crust, cor­rect ingre­di­ents, nicely black­ened buboes, more on the crisp side than Tutta Bella’s.  There’s a purity about the dishes here; noth­ing has more ingre­di­ents than needed.  The Cae­sar salad is dead sim­ple and very good.  The lasagna is per­fect— noth­ing but fine hand­made pasta, ricotta, and béchamel in mul­ti­ple lay­ers, and a per­fectly tex­tured seed­less red sauce on top.  Wine: the rubio san polo goes well.  Also: the Aran­cia Salata, made with Aperol, Vodka and roasted orange, is delicious.

Odd­fel­lows.  Hipster-intensive and deli­cious com­fort food, in a high ceilinged room open to the street in the for­mer Odd­fel­lows build­ing (and with much of the décor scav­enged from the building’s for­mer life).

Tallulah’s.  19th is start­ing to look pretty great.  This place, next to the new and very well sup­plied neigh­bor­hood gro­cery Cone & Steiner and the equally hip Hello Robin ice cream shop, is very good look­ing and the food is credible.

Quinn’s Pub.  Gas­tropub with good food.

Oste­ria La Spiga

Via Tri­bunali

Tutta Bella

Cafe Presse.  Main­stay of late night din­ing.  Kitchen open til 1pm everyday.

Le Pichet.  Bell­town restau­rant by the Cafe Presse peo­ple, also open late, some­what more lim­ited menu.

Har­vest Vine.  Long­time great tapas place, pricy but delicious.

Boat Street Café

India Bistro

Vol­un­teer Park Café

Smith.  Pou­tine!  And uncom­monly good mac and cheese.

Pike Street Fish Fry.  The fish and chip and friends are very good here.  Also, the pulled pork sand­wich is great.

Malay Satay Hut

Agua Verde Pad­dle Club.  Decent Gringo Mex with high qual­ity ingre­di­ents.  There’s often a long line, but in the sum­mer you can rent out a kayak before a late dinner.


Carta de Oaxaca

Sta­ple & Fancy

How to Cook a Wolf.  My other co-favorite of Ethan Stowell’s, with Anchovies & Olives.

Shang­hai Garden

Essen­tial Baking

Armandino’s Salumi.  Brain­child of Mario Batali’s father, really beau­ti­ful salumi and (if one shows up and waits in line) great week­day lunch.  The finoc­chiona and a non­tra­di­tional vari­a­tion with mole are tops.

Grand Cen­tral Bakery

Colum­bia City Bak­ery.  Best pain au lev­ain in Seat­tle.  I’m guess­ing some of the best bread on the West Coast period north of Tartine.

La Medusa


Hon­oré.  I thought we’d never sup­plant Besalu for the cof­fee and pas­try dur­ing the kids’ park­our class.  But this place has done it.  Shorter lines, astound­ing quiche, beau­ti­ful berry-filled dan­ishes and excel­lent canelles.

Bak­ery Nou­veau.  Finally a real bak­ery in Capi­tol Hill.  Fancy cakes etc., though the crois­sants aren’t quite up to the level of Hon­ore or Besalu.





Revel.  Dun­ge­ness crab noo­dles with red curry and creme fraiche– superb.

West­ward / Lit­tle Gull.  Nice views over the lake; the lamb shoul­der is excellent.

Espresso Vivace.  Gold stan­dard for espresso in Seat­tle.  Sev­eral locations.


Vic­trola.  Go-to for great espresso on 15th on Capi­tol Hill.  The espresso is in fact more robust and less middle-of-the-road than Vivace’s.

Eltana.  Great bagels, non­stan­dard spreads, and deli­cious shakshuka.

Than Broth­ers.  The actual best Pho in Seat­tle is to be had at Mon­soon, but that’s quite fancy.  For the it’s-on-your-table-in-60-seconds, $3.99, cream puffs included ver­sion, one goes to Than Brothers.

Fogón.  Great new Mex­i­can place in the Pike/Pine cor­ri­dor.  Hip, nei­ther self-consciously upscale nor dumpy.

Din Tai Fung.  One has opened in Uni­ver­sity Village!

Delancey.  This pizza place is by all accounts awe­some.  Next to the also awe­some Hon­ore in Ballard.

For cook­ing, aside from Pike Place Market–

De Lau­renti

Mutual Fish.  Best seafood seller in Seat­tle.  (Not a restaurant.)

Fishermen’s ter­mi­nal in Bal­lard.  Good fish can be got­ten here, from off the boat, much more cheaply than at Mutual.

Cone & Steiner.  Great ( + expen­sive) neigh­bor­hood gro­cery on 19th.


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Din Tai Fung.  Soup dumplings are the thing to get here of course.  On the menu they’re called “mini juicy pork buns” or something.

Wild Gin­ger.  Chilean sea bass + herbs with brown rice = excellent.

Mon­soon East


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Tasty n Sons.  Pleased by our din­ner at this place.

Pok Pok.  Viet­namese street food place highly rec­om­mended by Jessy.

san fran­cisco

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Flour + water.  The Mission.

La Cic­cia.  Sardinian.

Nopa.  Near the panhandle.



Tar­tine.  Really excel­lent bread and pas­tries.  Leg­endary bread actu­ally, Pol­lan more or less devotes a chap­ter to it in Cooked.





Way­fare Tav­ern.  Very good.

AQ.  Very good.

Wexler’s.  Beau­ti­ful drinks and food, gor­geous black wave on the ceiling.

Bour­bon & Branch (anti saloon league, speakeasy)



Mis­sion Chi­nese Food
Pizzetta 211
Chez Maman
Pizze­ria Del­fina
Monk’s Ket­tle
Cafe Mys­tique
Weird Fish
Farmer Brown
Lit­tle Star
Burma Super Star
La Taqueria



Bistro Aix

Bour­bon Steak

Cotogna.  Very excellent.

Slanted Door.  Great Viet­namese near the ferry terminal.

Mar­lowe.  This place is quite good.

Outer Lands.  Beau­ti­ful envi­ron­ment out on Sun­set, good drinks and very nice food.

Far­al­lon.  Not sure on look­ing, pos­si­bly douchy.
Fifth Floor.  Pricey but inter­est­ing Fer­ran Adrià kind of sit­u­a­tion near the SF stu­dio.
Gitane.  Indul­gent tapas of the broiled bacon-wrapped-date sort in a lit­tle alley, same neigh­bor­hood.
Zero Zero.  Pizza and pasta, decent.

Mon­te­sacro Pin­se­ria + Enoteca.  Gritty and cool pizze­ria just off Mar­ket St., inter­est­ing lighter-weight take on the dough (sup­pos­edly inspired by the early Roman ver­sion of pizza) and good sim­ple wines, kitchen open til 11pm every­day except Sunday.

SPQR.  Fancy haut Roman, deli­cious and creative.

Nico.  This place is excel­lent.  A delight of short menu and few options, both food and wine– all paired, mostly inspired.

Ver­bena.  This looks like it needs to be tried.

The Square.  Not bad, short of fabulous.

Casey’s Pizza.  This pizza truck is aston­ish­ingly good.  One needs to check the web­site to see where it will be.

proxy.  This tem­po­rary project on a stalled devel­op­ment in Hayes Val­ley is home to a lovely bier­garten and an assort­ment of food trucks.

Bar Agri­cole [pic].  The restau­rant is so beau­ti­ful that it’s hard to focus on the food.  The food’s good.  The drinks are good.  The space is a sort of Swedish designer’s dream.  Clean wood, wood-textured cement, per­fectly shaped glasses and decanters, a sense of mod­ernist lifestyle geom­e­try that makes one feel that one is simul­ta­ne­ously inhab­it­ing the decade of Falling­wa­ter and the 21st cen­tury utopia wrongly pre­fig­ured by Fallingwater.

Cof­fee bar.  Very pleas­ant envi­ron­ment in which to hang out with the lap­top and hack for an after­noon.  Accept­able espresso (though not on par with the best in SF).  Soups and sand­wiches.  Some power out­lets, and some tables “laptop-free”.

Pic­cino [pic].  Lit­tle cof­feeshop in the Dog­patch; also now sport­ing an adja­cent place to sit down for pizza, wine, sal­ads.  Under­go­ing some kind of major expan­sion now, scal­ing up to a larger restau­rant.  The tiny mostly standing-room bar is still best, I think.  Very fine espresso and cap­puc­cino, served in crudely formed raku cups whose glazed and scored sur­faces feel good on the fin­gers.  Blue Bot­tle beans.  Lim­ited but good selec­tion of small baked things as well.

Rit­ual [pic].  Among the best SF cof­feeshops, on par with Four Bar­rel and Blue Bot­tle on a good day (though not as con­sis­tent).  Excel­lent crois­sants and attrac­tive space.

Blue Bot­tle.  The clas­sic place for a beau­ti­ful cap­puc­cino in the tra­di­tional size.  (The Vivace of SF?)  The wait may be long, and the baristi are insen­si­tive to line length– per­haps even shear-thickening as it length­ens.  Their very high self-regard is jus­ti­fied.  Also: lovely for break­fast.  Only 2–3 things, but good ones.

Four Bar­rel.  An excel­lent third wave cof­feeshop.  Much of the deep, warehouse-like space is devoted to roast­ing and other cof­fee machin­ery; the front, where you sit or stand at the bar, is fur­nished cleanly and minimally—except a hair­ily tan­gled hang­ing rope light, and four boar heads mounted on the wall.  The menu is short and rig­or­ous; for exam­ple, only plain crois­sants, but good ones.  The unex­pected “boar head ele­ment” is an affogato made with stout-flavored gelato, which is pfg.


Farm: Table

the sum­mit

Bouche.  This was a lovely sur­prise find near the Microsoft offices on Mar­ket Street.  Not par­tic­u­larly notice­able from the out­side, quite hip on the inside with ver­ti­cal space, raw mate­ri­als and a taxi­der­mied Boar’s head, serv­ing din­ner until late (i.e. 12:35am on a Mon­day, which is when I showed up after the late flight in from Seat­tle).  I had a lovely glass of Peche Abuse red blend, a corn soup done very cre­atively with a foamy emul­sion and a tem­per­a­ture gra­di­ent from hot around the rim to a small icy dol­lop of sor­bet in the cen­ter, and a cou­ple of other small dishes, all deli­cious.  I left very happy.  The wait­staff were friendly French expats, and the chef (Guil­laume from Provence) sported the Ein­stein­ian “afro of genius”.

OK, this is silly, but Beard Papa in the base­ment of the West­field Cen­ter has out­ra­geously good Japanese-style vanilla cream puffs.


A Cote



Gather.  Good for brunch.

Strada.  Decent cof­fee, excel­lent work envi­ron­ment (plugs and WiFi outside).

Enoteca Moli­nari

vic­to­ria, b.c.

There are blogs claim­ing that Vic­to­ria is a foodie place, and this may or may not be the case– I know that many of the places I researched looked prob­lem­atic, and the impres­sion was con­firmed when we passed by them (the down­town is really very small) and saw that they had obvi­ous prob­lems (e.g. those awful OPEN signs writ­ten in ellip­ti­cal LED, or an “Ital­ian” fish dish cov­ered with melted asi­ago cheese, wtf).  But we did in the end find a beau­ti­ful place to eat, and checked out another place that would be worth try­ing next time.

ulla.  Almost passed it up because the food pic­tures on the web­site seemed a bit too much.  Made reser­va­tions any­way, because the pre­sen­ta­tions weren’t tall and were spar­ing in their use of dots– good signs.  And it was really lovely.  In the mouth, not just on the plate.  (Though on the place it was also every bit as pretty as in the pho­tos.)  The ingre­di­ents were of high qual­ity, and the dishes ren­dered with a quiet, intense pride that didn’t whiff of cul­tural cringe like some of the estab­lish­ments down the street.  The place has a mod­ern, com­fort­able, white wood kind of look, and atten­tive but not over­ween­ing staff.  Very much worth return­ing to, and would be in any city.

devour.  Closed on week­ends, looks like a one woman show with just a few tables.  I want to try this place next time.  It looks promising.


Victoria’s Espresso.  The only fully accept­able cof­fee in Aspen, and good for sal­ady quichey things as well.


jeni ice cream

Jeni’s ice cream.


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Volt­age Cof­fee & Art.  Good espresso near MIT and enough barista tat­toos to look famil­iar from the Seat­tle perspective.

Belly bar.  Noisy and hip base­ment bar on Kendall Square with a few com­mu­nal high tables.  Nice short wine list, good salumi and cic­cheti, and fon­due if you reserve ahead.  The lamb polpette were delicious.

Dumpling Cafe Inc.  This place in Chi­na­town had cred­i­ble and yummy soup dumplings.  (Listed on the menu as “mini juicy buns”, either pork or pork + crab.  The pork-only are the way to go.)




Avec.  Prob­a­bly favorite place in Chicago for now.


Girl and the goat


new york

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Batali place on Waverly

Batali place on Thompson

Mamoun.  Cheap and ever awe­some falafel in the East Vil­lage open til after mid­night; try the excel­lent smoky chicken kebab in pita with a dol­lop of babaganoush.

Tor­risi Ital­ian Spe­cial­ties.  This place looks very spe­cial and has come with high praise from trusted friends.  Unfor­tu­nately, I think get­ting a reser­va­tion is difficult.


Telepan.  Anne and Michael rec.

Per Se.  Must try it.

WD~50.  Also must try it.

Le Bernardin


Nice Matin.  Brunch standby near the Nat­ural His­tory Museum.

Cafe Lalo.  Cute and good for brunch or frit­tata type stuff any­time of day, also a huge dessert menu and absinthey drinks at night.


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Al con­tadino sotto le stelle



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De Kas


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Cera 23.  Rec­om­men­da­tion from Ilya.

Com­merç 24.  Also from Ilya.

cam­bridge, uk

The Punter, 3 Pound Hill.  Cam­bridge is a very beau­ti­ful lit­tle town.  And it turns out that, notwith­stand­ing being in Eng­land, it does have an excel­lent place to eat: The Punter.  A pub with lovely mod­ern food made from high qual­ity ingre­di­ents, and the usual sup­ply of arti­sanal warm beer or what­ever they call it.


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Fish Com­pany


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Place with Blaine

French bak­ery

tel aviv

Yo’Ezer Wine Bar.  [Note– the patri­arch is dead and the place is now closed :( super sad.  Yo’Ezer RIP.]

Mar­garet Tayar.  This is the place under the big blue metal fish vis­i­ble from the Jaffa clock­tower.  Open­ing hours seem some­what erratic, and the tem­pera­men­tal epony­mous Margaret’s “high prices” for this kind of food annoy many locals.  (For a non-Israeli, this means lit­tle, as the food is deli­cious Yemenite stuff, you won’t be com­ing here every day, and if this restau­rant were any­place else in the world its prices would be unre­mark­able.  The fine-ness of the prepa­ra­tion is also a step above ordi­nary Yemenite holes-in-the-wall.)

Suzanne Del­lal.  Lovely break­fasts in the cafe with ample patio and out­door seat­ing near the dance school.

Bar­bunia and Bar­bunia, the bar.  The bar, across the street from the main restau­rant at 162 Ben Yehuda, is better.

Con­tainer is a cool place in Jaffa, right on the water oppo­site the piers.  Good drinks, good food, and a beau­ti­ful raw indus­trial space true to its name.

Ido says (May 2012): “If you have the time, go to Berti (ברטי)– King George 86 TLV”.  This seems like advice worth following.

Basta, in/next to the Carmel mar­ket.  The truf­fle pizza is great.  (Thanks Ishay.)

Rec­om­men­da­tions from Michelle:

Rabin Square area (all are within walk­ing dis­tance from one another):

1. The ‘Brasserie’ — a very pop­u­lar place, good food.  Rec­om­mended dishes: bone mar­row with toast, chicken con­somme, endive salad with cham­pagne vinai­grette (good for a nice lunch).  Bak­ery next door belongs to them and has excel­lent cof­fee and pastries.

2. Book­worm or ‘Tolaat Sfarim’ — right across the square from the Brasserie, an excel­lent book­store cafe.  They have won­der­ful meal-salads and good cof­fee, and every­one who is some­one in the int­elec­tual life of Tel Aviv sits there.  Also a very pro Pales­tin­ian place.

3. ‘Car­di­nal Choco­late’ A Choco­latier — deli­cious choco­lates way beyond any­thing any­one over here makes... Don’t miss the sour cherry pralines.

Yehuda Halevi/ Lilen­blum area:

1. ‘Joz Veloz’ — the hip­ster hang­out. Arrive early, there is a line.  Food has been excel­lent or noth­ing much in waves, no idea what is hap­pen­ing now, but I am going there when in Israel, just to feel the beat of the city which I so miss here.  Cor­rect Adress is: Yehuda Halevi 51. There is an iron gate at the side of an ugly res­i­den­tial build­ing, through the gate to your right, in a con­verted insur­ance office.

2. ‘Katit’ Extra fancy local fusion. The chef, Meir Adoni, is a whiz in desserts and sweets, I ate there once and loved it, hope it is still the same ;-)

3. North Abraxas — this place is sup­posed to be incred­i­ble, don’t miss it (and tell us how it was...). The chef, Eyal Shani, is a genius, and it is also sup­posed to have excel­lent music.

4. The trendi­est, hippest place in town is called ‘The Basta’. It is in the cor­ner of one of the streets of the Karmel mar­ket — on Hashomer st. No. 4.  I am totally plan­ning on vis­it­ing it, it is sup­posed to be out of this world deli­cious (the above applies here as well about telling us how it was).

5. And of course, ‘Her­bert samuel’, Very easy to find, deli­cious and very easy to enjoy. if this list is too con­fus­ing, go there only– it’s the clos­est there is to a sure thing.  [I can con­firm this place is excellent.]

Odds & Ends we mentioned:

- ‘Old timer’s’ cool cafe in TLV = ‘Cafe mer­sand’ — Ben Yehuda 70

- Jerusalem — ‘Rashel’s Sand­wich’ No. 17 Beit-Lechem Rd. — take the daily spe­cial (Tunisian food, all freshly cooked there, delicious!!)


Abu Shukri.  Best hum­mus ever.


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Venissa on Burano.  Unbe­liev­ably deli­cious and beau­ti­ful place, inven­tive haute cui­sine.  Very spe­cial wines (includ­ing vines they’re cul­ti­vat­ing on the prop­erty, a res­ur­rected vari­etal the Doges used to keep on the island).  (Pricey.)

Ae Oche.  In San Polo, off a “local” quiet square on the Zat­tere vaporetto stop.  Widely regarded as the best pizza in Venice.

La Zucca.  Near Ae Oche, this place is very nice, and a lit­tle more inven­tive than the usual Venet­ian stan­dards, while still firmly grounded in tra­di­tion.  Mostly vegetables.

Tonolo.  In the San Polo quar­ter across a bridge behind the Scuola San Rocco.  The fiamma, a choux pas­try filled with marsala cream, is pretty much the best thing I’ve ever tasted.  But every­thing here is good.  Cap­puc­cino comes in lovely lit­tle blue porce­lain cups.  Don’t get there too late in the morn­ing as their pas­tries sell out.

Da Fiore.  As far as I know the only place in Venice with a Miche­lin star.  We had a won­der­ful meal here, both haute and with a wel­come ele­ment of earth­i­ness.  The house-made pros­ecco is deli­cious.  This was the first place I tried crudo, sashimi-style fish in olive oil, and prob­a­bly still the best.  (Update: Da Fiore remains excellent.)

Corte Sconta.  On Calle del Pestrin, in Castello.  It’s worth tak­ing a long walk to dine here.  A bit pricey, like Da Fiore; and I think equally great.  The meal begins with a long and cre­ative tast­ing menu of seafoods; the chal­lenge is to still be able to keep going by the time you get to the part you actu­ally ordered.  [Note: last visit in 2015 was underwhelming.]

Ai Do Mori.  Near the Rialto bridge, hid­den away on the Calle Do Mori in San Polo.  One goes here for an “ombra”, a glass of white wine in the after­noon and some cicheti (lit­tle bites at the bar, a bit like tapas or pintxos).


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100 Maneiras.  This place is (Adri­enne assures) amazing.

Pap’ Acorda

Rubro Avenida “had a beau­ti­ful inte­rior and was deli­cious. recommended.”


Campu Lat­inu is the fancier of two restau­rants in the pic­turesque vil­lage of Lama (pop­u­lation 176 in 2008 accord­ing to Wikipedia— an inland ham­let perched on a steep moun­tain­side about halfway between Ile Rousse and Bas­tia).  The set­ting is beau­ti­ful and atmos­pheric, with out­door seat­ing on a stone ter­race under fig trees and climb­ing vines over­look­ing the val­ley.  As dusk comes in, around 9 o’clock, lay­ers of moun­tain­ous sil­hou­ette rise softly out of the clouds on the far side in pur­ple bands.  One of the tra­di­tional dishes served by Campu Lat­inu, a sort of beef pot pie with juniper berries in the stew, was a standout.

Café de la Place.  Place Pas­cal Paoli, up to the cas­tle, with its won­der­ful panoramic view­points, is rec­om­mended.  At Café de la Place on this square we had a very good hand­made pasta dish with san­glier, which are the wild pigs liv­ing on the island.

U Paglia Orba, in Corte.  We had a very nice meal here.  The place is focused on high-quality regional cook­ing.  The pro­pri­etor was kind and atten­tive to the kids, and the bill was very reasonable.

Emile’s on the water­front in Calvi is a Michelin-starred place with a second-story bal­cony.  It’s white table­cloth (what Miche­lin place isn’t?), but not exces­sively for­mal.  The meal was very good, and the wines excellent.

M*.  We had a very nice upscale lunch on the water at Saint-Florent, but I’m now unable to find the name of the restau­rant, which is quite frus­trat­ing.  It began with an “M”, and one accessed it by walk­ing down a some­what hid­den ramp off the main square.  The lan­gouste in lemon but­ter sauce here made it clear what all the fuss was about.  This place also served deli­cious stuffed sar­dines, in which broc­ciu was deployed to bet­ter effect than in the ubiq­ui­tous cannelloni.


Buvette Gas­trotheque.  Very cute atmos­pheric place with nice food, focused on small dishes tapas-style but mostly tra­di­tion­ally French.

kb cafeshop.  Very nice lit­tle spot, prob­a­bly makes the only proper cap­puc­cino (or “cafe creme”) in France.  (OK, Cafe Kit­sune may also be a con­tender, did not verify.)

Par­adis.  We had a good lunch here.

Ren­dezvous au Marche.  A sim­ple place run by a dude who loves his meat, and loves to cook.  Clas­sic and delicious.

Lou Pescadou Chez Julien.

Helene Dar­roze.  Birth­day lunch for Adri­enne here– deli­cious and del­i­cate, impec­ca­ble ser­vice with­out obnoxiousness.


Tasca Celso y Manolo.  Favorite place in Madrid so far.  Deli­cious and cheeky giant-sized menu focus­ing on the very local.  Inven­tive and tra­di­tional at the same time.

Tri­Ci­clo.  Deli­cious cre­ative fusion-y tapas.

Tan­dem.  Smaller place down the street from Tri­Ci­clo run by the same guys, also very good.

La Ardosa.  Super cute bar with great ver­mut and tortilla.

Ten Con Ten.  Great high-end yet casual place, on the spot seat­ing for one or two gen­er­ally avail­able at the bar.

La train­era for fresh fish from the north.

St. James for the best paella. And arroz Negro.

Cafe de la opera and taberna del alabardero.

Platea, the movie the­ater turned tapas extrav­a­ganza in Calle Goya.

Lava­pies neigh­bor­hood: great tra­di­tional restau­rant that serves cocido next to Tirso de Molina subway.

Mer­cado de San Miguel.  Full of cute tapas places and food merchants.

Cerve­ce­ria Santa Bar­bara.  The type of beer they sell is very spe­cial, the shrimp are to die for.  Order berbere­chos, and get their chips.

La Castela.  Tra­di­tional tapas place.

Ultra­mari­nos Quintin.

Casa Gon­za­lez.

Choco­la­te­ria San Gines.  The clas­sic chur­ros place, indus­trial scale, open 24h.

Choco­lat.  Calle Sta. Maria 30.  Excel­lent choco­late con churros.

Microteatro por dinero.  Super cool con­cept and exe­cu­tion– 5–15 minute plays run­ning con­tin­u­ously through­out the evening, staged in a for­mer brothel.


10 Greek Street.  Cute place in SoHo with mod­ern Italian-ish food, Aussie chef, nice short menu.

Ter­roirs.  Super-popular place in Covent Gar­den serv­ing a few nice small dishes and good wine.

bar­ra­fina.  A cou­ple of doors down from Ter­roirs is a brightly lit, fas­tid­i­ously clean Cata­lan bar with a long, stain­less steel bar, and lots of deli­cious things.

notes.  This arti­sanal cof­fee place in Covent Gar­den is pretty seri­ous, and makes fancy stuff like shakerato.


[bingMap maptype=“Road” type=“static” width=“640” location=“Belgrade, Serbia”]

Saran is a very good fish restau­rant in Zemun, a town on the banks of the Danube which has been engulfed by Bel­grade (though it still retains a very local char­ac­ter).  The fresh­wa­ter fish is best, as this is local and fresh.

Stara Koliba, also on the river, looks promis­ing.  Reser­va­tions needed.

Vuk, which means Wolf, is a very old-school place in the old city.  The food was good and kept com­ing.  Meat, meat, meat!  This is best enjoyed on the out­door patio.


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